Navigating the complexities of traveling back home as an immigrant in America is akin to threading a needle. The logistical challenges—infrequent flights to Ivory Coast from Washington, DC, coupled with the precarious balance of vacation hours and job security—loom like daunting obstacles.
Even with accrued vacation time, the demands of the restaurant industry often complicate matters further. The prospect of leaving a position unfilled for an extended period is a luxury few establishments can afford. With a plethora of relatives awaiting my return, a mere week or two back home hardly seems sufficient. To truly savor the experience and reconnect with loved ones, I require a span of 30 to 45 days—a time frame that promises both fulfillment and rejuvenation.
Since embarking on my culinary journey, my trips to Africa have been few and far between, spaced roughly a decade apart. In 1999, compelled by my father’s illness, I made the pilgrimage to Ivory Coast. Amidst familial reunions and emotional reckonings, I found myself immersed in the vibrant tapestry of local flavors—a treasure trove of inspiration for the chef I aspire to become. Yet, while the journey was informative and enriching, it proved to be the least restful excursion of my life.
Upon my return to work, I was confronted with a seemingly insurmountable task: creating ten visually stunning dishes for an impending photo shoot. The demand for instant creativity felt suffocating, leaving me grappling with frustration and self-doubt. It was a moment of reckoning, compounded by the weight of expectation and the fear of failure.
Fortunately, a moment of clarity emerged amidst the chaos, courtesy of Barton Bonbrest, the restaurant’s astute general manager. With a single question, he reframed the narrative, igniting a spark of inspiration within me. His wisdom—“If you had $10,000, would you spend it taking pictures of your food?”—served as a catalyst for action, prompting me to embrace the creative process with renewed vigor.
In the days that followed, I delved into the alchemy of culinary creation, drawing inspiration from a mosaic of memories and experiences. Each dish bore the imprint of my journey—whether a nostalgic nod to childhood flavors, a homage to exotic travels, or a daring reinvention of tradition.
While the circumstances were far from ideal, the crucible of adversity forged a collection of dishes that transcended mere culinary artistry—they embodied the essence of my culinary identity. And as the shutter clicked and the images immortalized my creations, I found solace in the knowledge that true creativity knows no bounds, flourishing even in the most unlikely of circumstances.
Over the coming weeks, I will unveil each recipe alongside its source of inspiration and whimsical marketing ads. These dishes are not merely culinary creations—they are a testament to resilience, creativity, and the indomitable spirit of exploration. And to any food photographer, stylist, or marketing company who contributed to this project at Red Sage, please reach out—I am eager to credit your invaluable contributions to this culinary journey.
Ingredients
- For The Pastrami
- Prep Time: 3 days
- 1 side of fresh salmon, skin on, bones removed
- FOR THE BRINE
- 2 gallons water
- 1 cup coarse kosher salt
- 2 ½ cups brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons whole peppercorn
- 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
- 1 ½ tablespoons mustard seeds
- 1 ½ tablespoons pink peppercorn
- 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
- 1 tablespoons whole cloves
- 2 teaspoons chili flakes
- 5 bay leaves
- FOR THE SPICE RUB
- ½ cup molasses
- 2 tablespoons caraway seeds
- 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
- 3 tablespoons black peppercorn
- 2 teaspoons juniper berries
- 2 tablespoons paprika
- 2 teaspoons chili flakes
- ⅔ cup salt
- ⅔ cup brown sugar
- For The Tartare
- 1 pound Chopped salmon
- ¼ bunch Cilantro, minced
- 2 tbsp Shallots, minced
- 1 teaspoon Lemon zest, minced
- ¼ teaspoon Lemon Oil
- ¼ teaspoon Olive Oil
- 1 teaspoon Chipotle puree
- Salt and pepper to taste
- For the Tequila-cured Atlantic Salmon
- Prep Time: 2 days
- 2 tablespoons water
- small onion, chopped
- 4 cloves garlic, chopped
- 2 jalapeno, stem removed and chopped
- 1 cup chopped cilantro
- 2-pound salmon fillet, skin on
- 2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
- 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoons cumin seeds
- Zest of 3 limes
- 2 cups kosher salt
- 2 cups light brown sugar
- 2 cups tequila
- For The Pickled Cactus
- Prep Time: 30 mins | Cook Time: 15 mins
- 1 pound cactus pedales
- Salt for soaking
- 2 cups sugar
- ¼ cup salt
- 1 small onion, sliced
- 2 carrot, peeled and sliced
- 2 jalapenos, sliced
- 4 clove garlic, sliced
- 2 cups water
- 2 cups cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 2 sprigs thyme
- ½ teaspoon turmeric
- ½ teaspoon cumin seeds
- ½ teaspoon celery seeds
- ½ teaspoon coriander seeds
Preparation
For The Pastrami
- To make the Brine, dissolve salt and dark brown sugar into the water in a container that can hold the salmon flat and set aside.
- Heat a cast iron skillet, add the whole spices and toast for a few minutes until fragrant but not burnt.
- Add the toasted spices, chile flakes and bay leaves to the salt water mixture. Stir to combine. Chill brine in refrigerator to about 40 °F
- When cold, add salmon to brine and place in the refrigerator for 3 days
- Remove the salmon from brine, pat dry and set aside.
- To make the spice rub, in a small skillet, lightly toast the seeds over moderate heat, shaking the pan, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer the seeds to a mortar and let cool completely. Crush the seeds as finely as possible with a pestle. Combine with paprika, chile flakes, salt and brown sugar.
- Place salmon skin side down. Using a brush, paint salmon nonskin side with the molasses.
- Sprinkle the spice rub on the fish.
- Transfer salmon to the smoker skin-side down.
- Smoke for about 4 hours, maintaining a chamber temperature between 140 °F / 60 °C and 145 °F / 63 °C
- If you don’t have a smoker, refrigerate the pastrami uncovered for at least 12 hours or overnight.
For The Tartare
- Put Chopped salmon In a large mixing bowl.
- Add lemon and olive oils, mix well.
- Mix all the other ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.
- Mix well and serve cold.
For The Cured Salmon
- Place the onion, garlic, jalapenos, cilantro and lime zest in a blender, add water and puree until smooth. Set aside.
- In a small skillet, lightly toast the seeds over moderate heat, shaking the pan, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Let cool completely. And coarsely grind in a mortar or coffee grinder. Set aside.
- Combine the salt, sugar and tequila in a mixing bowl and set aside.
- Line the counter with a large sheet of aluminium foil. Cover the foil with equal lenght of plastic wrap.
- Place the salmon on top of the plastic wrap skin side down. Pat dry.
- Spread the jalapeno-cilantro mixture over the top of the salmon. Press mixture down into the salmon. Spread the salt mixture evenly over the salmon, wrap the plastic wrap over the salmon followed by the floil.
- Place the wrapped salmon in between 2 sheet trays pressed down with a heavy material like a brick or tomato cans. Refrigerate for 48 hours.
- Unwrap the salmon, scrape off the curing mix. The salmon should look raw but firm. Cut against the grain when ready to use it.
For The Pickled Cactus
- Trim away any spikes off the cactus pad with a knife. Cut the pad into diamond shapes or into strips.
- Place the cut cactus in a large bowl and toss with a good amount of salt. Let soak for an hour.
- Rinse the cactus thoroughly with water to remove salt and slime and pat dry.
- In a nonreactive pot, combine the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, peppercorn cumin, thyme, turmeric, celery seed and coriander seed. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
- Pack the cactus, onion, carrot, jalapeño and garlic into clean jars. Pour the hot vinegar brine into the jars, leaving 1/2″ headspace. Apply lids and rings, and process in the water bath canner for 10 minutes.